There are a countless number of hamster cages on the market today – the trick is finding a good one that will help not harm your hammy’s health. There are designs with crazy tunnels connecting different levels, amazing coloured plastics, even one made from the casing of an i-Mac computer. But are they any good for the hamster – or is all that flashy design just going to burn a hole in your pocket? This article explains the differences between wire and glass or plastic cages for health, for you (cleaning) and when attaching vital hamster supply products. By the time you’ve read this, you should be able to work out whether you want a wire or glass/plastic cage for your little hammy or hammys.

Health: Safe for teeth, bodies and breathing?
Hamsters are technically rodents and as such their gnashers constantly grow. They need to be Able to gnaw on something regularly to prevent teeth becoming overgrown. The bars of wire cages could be useful for gnawing, although the site of the hamster gnawing at the bars might not be the nicest, it can look a bit ‘prisonerish’. Hamsters of course must exercise and wire bars can be also be good for them to climb about on. Plastic designs may have crazy tunnels they can scuttle through but check these are safe – could they become trapped in the tunnel, is there enough ventilation? Ventilation is a big issue with plastic or glass cages – they should at the very least be fitted with ventilated lids and its worth considering whether they can really get enough flow through of air to be truly considered safe. Alongside the need for gnawing, exercise and air, there are also your own needs as an owner to consider.

Check very carefully for saftey – ventilation, places they could slip, fall or get trapped ?

Keeping It Fresh
You’re going to need to tidy every day and clean thoroughly at least once every week. If the cage has an easily removable plastic base, you can just slide it out. If the cage has bars, you’ll need a little ‘moat’ of newspaper around it as you’ll probably find hammy will toss and kick bedding materials through the bars! The flashier designs with multiple parts to take apart will definitely take more time and you will need a ‘bottle brush’ or similar to clean out any tunnels. Its safe to say you’ll spend considerable time tidying and cleaning the cage so don’t overlook this aspect in favour of say, the look of the cage. Cleaning aside, you’ll also need to be sure the cage will easily accommodate essential supplies.

Essential Stuff You Need
You’ll want to make the cage as big as you can for your hammy’s enjoyment but he or she will still need an exercise wheel (see Safer Cages Tips). These days there are designs that clip on easily to any type of cage. You’ll also need to fix a drip-feed hamster water bottle and these may end up having to be hung in a plastic or glass cage, or bowls provided instead. Water bowls are not a great option, due to the amount of ‘flying sawdust’ antics hamsters get up to, leaving them with bowls full of soggy mulch.  You’ll also need a food bowl.

Choosing a hamster cage is about finding one that really does the true job – housing your hamster in a healthy and spacious environment. The breed of hamster may determine choice – the now defunct Hamster Society published online advice indicating they favoured wire cages for larger hamsters and glass/plastic tanks for littler ones (1). Whilst its tempting to for the most visually appealing maze of tubes, levels and who knows what else, it really needs to be healthy and a doddle to clean or you’ll end up weekly bemoaning the day you bought it.

IMPORTANT: This article is intended to give some insight as an introduction only – there are different species of hamsters and every animal has individual needs to consider. Please consult you vet for advice about your hamsters welfare – no internet pages can ever replace their advice!

Jonathon Boyd

References
1. The Hamster Society.  Choosing a Cage [online]. Available from:

http://www.hamsoc.org.uk/husbandry.php#Cages

Useful Reading

ASPCA. Hamster Care [online]. Available at:

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/small-pet-care/hamster-care.html

RSPCA. Know what your hamster needs [online]. Available at:

http://www.rspca.org.uk/servlet/BlobServer?blobtable=RSPCABlob&blobcol=urlblob&blobkey=id&blobwhere=1154077759094&blobheader=application/pdf

Photo Credits:

Top hamster in cage http://www.sxc.hu/profile/lusi Next hamster in cage http://www.sxc.hu/profile/agusia Hamster bowl  http://www.sxc.hu/profile/brofosifo

Nesting Boxes
Hamsters are nocturnal, asleep in the day and up scurrying about making a mini-racket at night. When they sleep in the day, they have a natural instinct to hide themselves away inside an enclosed space. They also need somewhere to hide the food titbits they famously stuff into their pouches. You can give them a simple small nesting box (without anything sharp on it) with an entrance, through to buying a fancy nesting product from pet stores.   Ask yourself is it big enough to comfortably accommodate them, could anything sharp injure them or become sharp/detached/both through chewing? Accommodating their natural behaviour will leave them less likely to suffer stress and you can also help them by providing toys for mental stimulation.

Toys
Back to safety rules again here – is anything sharp, could it become sharp/detached/both. Also it needs to be untreated wood or non-toxic material. Gnawing toys are essential to keep their ever-growing teeth stay at a manageable length; tubes are fun and good for exercise. Hamster balls are controversial, with opinion steeply divided. Some say they’re fun and great for exercise. Others point out hamsters naturally want to hide and feel balls frighten them because they can’t behave naturally. Others claim they only run as they feel trapped and trying to escape, creating ongoing anxiety.  A safe play pen can accomodate natural behaviour,  with tubes and a (sterilised) sandbox to dig in . Interestingly, balls didn’t feature for exercise within 7 different care advice resources – whereas solid wheels did (1, 2, 3, 4 ,5, 6, 7, 8). Ladders are good so long as they can’t get limbs caught in them, hanging toys not recommended again in case they got caught in them. As well as toys for dental health and stimulation, hamsters require daily grooming.

Hamster Brushes and Sand
A long haired Syrian hamster needs daily brushing, with a special hamster brush from a pet store or even a soft toothbrush (1, 9). Some sources say all hamsters need daily brushing (9); all appreciate a dish of sand bought from a pet store to roll in, removing grease from their coats. Practice good handling daily to get your hamster used to this and be extremely, super-gentle, they truly are delicate little critters. Pick them up with the upmost care with both your hands as a scoop, and only handle them over a flat, soft surface – never at height in case they fall or jump. Be aware if you wake them in the daytime, they may bite – because as far as their concerned, it’s the middle of the night and you’re simply a weird and intrusive predatory ‘giant hand-thing’ looming around them. With gentle persistence, you can establish a daily grooming session to keep coats healthier and shinier.

Your ‘accessories’ starter-kit now consists of a drip-feed water bottle, nesting box, toys and a brush. You’ll also want to consider a newspaper ‘moat’ if using a wire cage for bedding materials projected by hammys through the bars. You’ll need suitable bedding and of course proper food and a decent feeder receptacle. Armed with these essentials, you give your hamster a fighting chance of health and happiness

IMPORTANT: This article is for general reading – please consult your vet if you have any concerns or questions about hamsters, as no article can be exhaustive nor definitive  on health and safety.

Jo Boyd

References:

1. ASPCA. Hamster Care The 411 [online]. Available at:

http://www2.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=kids_pc_hamster_411

2. RSPCA. Know what your hamster needs.[online]. Available at:

http://www.rspca.org.uk/servlet/BlobServer?blobtable=RSPCABlob&blobcol=urlblob&blobkey=id&blobwhere=1154077759094&blobheader=application/pdf

3. Pet care – Hamsters .[online]. Available at:

http://www.rspca.org.uk/servlet/Satellite?pagename=RSPCA/RSPCARedirect&pg=SmallAnimalsCare&marker=1&articleId=1154077755713

4. The Hamster Society, Choosing a Cage [online]. Available at:

http://www.hamsoc.org.uk/husbandry.php#Cages

5. ASPCA Hamster Care [online]. Available at:

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/small-pet-care/hamster-care.html

6. BCSPCA. Kids Hamster Care [online]. Available at:

http://www.spca.bc.ca/kids/animalcare/hamstercare.asp

7. National Hamster Society. Getting Started [online]. Available at:

http://www.hamsters-uk.org/

8. EASE. The EASE Guide To Caring For Hamsters [online]. Available at:

http://www.ease-animals.org.uk/frame.html

9. RSPCA. Handle With Care – Hamsters [online]. Available at:

http://www.rspca.org.uk/servlet/Satellite?blobcol=urlblob&blobheader=application%2Fpdf&blobkey=id&blobtable=RSPCABlob&blobwhere=1099596633295&ssbinary=true&Content-Type=application/pdf

Photo Credits

Hamster in white background http://www.sxc.hu/profile/DeepBlu Nesting hamster http://www.sxc.hu/profile/pitrih Tubes http://www.sxc.hu/profile/Bubbels

What Not To Put In
Cedar or pine chips or shavings can create poisonous fumes (2, 4) and newspaper or other paper printed inks can also be a poison to hamsters (1, 4, and 5). Don’t use synthetic fluffy, other fluffy, fabric or wool bedding, including cotton wool  as it can become lodged in their cheek pouches (4) or cause blockages if eaten which can be fatal (5, 6). Stick to the list of recommended substances unless otherwise directed by your vet for safety and develop good cage hygiene habits to ensure better health.

Cage Hygiene
You will need to tidy the cage daily – this means removing soiled and wet bedding materials and any pieces of discarded food, otherwise it will rot in there. You can also use this time to check for any sharp pieces, although hopefully these won’t ever happen as you’ve already red the Safer Cages Tips. Place your hamster into a safe enclosed area for weekly cleaning, while you empty and wash down the hutch with hamster-safe disinfectant from a pet store or your vet. You may want to retain a little old bedding to mix it, to make your hamster feel at home when she/he gets back to his spring-cleaned cage with otherwise unfamiliar smells all around her/him.

Clean safe materials in the cage are a must – you risk hamster injury or worse by trying different materials. Creating a safe place to put hammy in while you clean is essential, one way to do this is to double up a daily exercise play pen as the cleaning-time enclosure. With a checklist of some known good hamster care ideas and some known harmful materials, you should be equipped to make a cosy home and start your hamster cage cleaning routine.

Jonathon & Jo Boyd

References

1. RSPCA. Pet care – Hamsters. [online]. Available from:

http://www.rspca.org.uk/servlet/Satellite?pagename=RSPCA/RSPCARedirect&pg=SmallAnimalsCare&marker=1&articleId=1154077755713

2. ASPCA. Hamster Care [online]. Available from:

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/small-pet-care/hamster-care.html

3. Hamster Care The 411 [online]. Available from:

http://www2.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=kids_pc_hamster_411

4. EASE. The EASE Guide To caring For Hamsters [online]. Available from:

http://www.ease-animals.org.uk/frame.html

5. PDSA. Golden Hamsters – A Suitable Environment [online]. Available from:

http://www.pdsa.org.uk/goldenhamsterenvironment.html

6. National Hamster Society. Getting Started [online]. Available at:

http://www.hamsters-uk.org/

Photo Credits

Hamster in cage in garden http://www.sxc.hu/profile/tatertot10 Cleaning products http://www.sxc.hu/profile/lusi Hamster Close-Up http://www.sxc.hu/profile/red2000

Dwarf variety

Once you’ve chosen a hamster cage, you still need some tips on considerations to stop your hamster becoming ill, injured or even dying accidentally. Hamsters are tiny, delicate little souls who have often come to harm or died through inappropriate keeping. This article explains whether to keep one or two, safety for exercise wheels, and the dangers of chewing.

One Hamster Or Two?
The general consensus seems to a be Syrian hamster especially must live alone in their own cage (1, 2, 3, 4) and all the larger breeds too. This is because hamsters fight each other – although some experts advocate the ‘dwarf’ hamster species enjoying living in pairs (2) but they may still fight (5). Even so DO NOT put boys and girls in together, even if they’re related – they will breed, leaving you with greater care issues and many new hammies to home. Sexing hamsters is difficult – from experience of a seemingly endless ‘supply’ of gerbils from parents we swore were all boys or girls – ask you vet.  Having decided how many and using the ‘Hamriettas’ from the ‘Hamrys’, move onto how they’ll exercise.

Syrian hamster

Exercise Wheels
Wild hamsters run 11 – 12 kilometres daily. Domestic hamsters also need to have at least an exercise wheel (plus a bigger safe play pen are to run in daily outside the cage is also great). DON’T BUY old fashioned wheels with rungs – these have been known to cause horrific injury. Only choose solid wheels, where no little hamster body parts can get trapped. Don’t waste your money – before you buy ask your vet about size – your hamster simply won’t be able to exercise properly in it if it’s too small or too big. Think you’ve found a solid, correctly sized wheel? Move onto considerations of chewing.

Epic FAIL - open runged wheels can cause injury

Chewing Their Way To Danger
One basic of hamster care is, like many small pets, they are fanatical chewers. They do it to keep their teeth in check apart from anything else – rodent’s teeth constantly grow and chewing wears them down to comfortable lengths. If small pieces become detached through chewing – say splinters, or slivers of plastic- they can cause injury in a number of ways. They may injure the eyes, nose, tail or other body part by ‘poking in’; or the hamster’s pouches and/or insides if swallowed and cause poisoning if they’re made of materials toxic to hamsters. Check anything going near your hammy is incredibly robust, made of untreated wood, non–toxic plastic, etc, and of course IS NOT ELECTRONIC IN ANY WAY – no matter what someone trying to sell you any gadget says! It’s better to hesitate and not give them any toys you’re unsure of until you’ve checked with your vet.

Jo Boyd

IMPORTANT : Please read this as a general introduction to the topics only – it can’t replace a vets advice-  their needs absolutely vary by breed, age, temperament, health status, etc.

References
1. RSPCA. Pet care – Hamsters [online] available from:

http://www.rspca.org.uk/servlet/Satellite?pagename=RSPCA/RSPCARedirect&pg=SmallAnimalsCare&marker=1&articleId=1154077755713

2. ASPCA. Hamster Care [online] available from:

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/small-pet-care/hamster-care.html

3. ASPCA.  Hamster Care The 411 [online] available from:
http://www2.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=kids_pc_hamster_411_Syrian Hamster

4. National Hamster Society. Getting started [online] available from:

http://www.hamsters-uk.org/

5. California Hamster Association. FAQs [online] available from:

http://www.geocities.com/calhamassoc/FAQ.html

Photo Credits

Dwarf hamster http://www.sxc.hu/profile/Meaikoh Syrian hamster http://www.sxc.hu/profile/jaaro Wiring http://www.sxc.hu/profile/mrgoose

NEVER FEED TOMATOE

Hamster Carriers
You need one in case your hamster needs vet care or for when you go away on holiday to take him or her to a friends or professional pet-sitters.  Don’t be tempted to skip getting one – hamsters can easily escape from cardboard boxes and there may not be enough ventilation in one or another ‘DIY’ carrier. They range in price from a few $ or £ to more fancy versions but remember, your hamster won’t care what style it is, so long as its comfy and safe.

Small animal carriers and food are not always interchangeable – food stuffs must be nutritionally species appropriate and carriers the right size. It’s also not necessary to buy a flashy product with a hefty price tag, many supplies are inexpensive.  With some tips for a healthy diet and safe transportation, your hamster is more likely to live longer and avoid injuries.

IMPORTANT: IF YOU SUSPECT YOUR HAMSTER HAS EATEN OR CHEWED OR ‘POUCHED’ SOMETHING HARMFUL OR IS INJURED/HARMED IN ANY WAY, PLEASE ONLY TAKE IT TO THE VETS – DO NOT TRY TO DIAGNOSE USING THIS ARTICLE. IT CANOT COVER ALL THE FOODS AND SITAUTIONS THAT CAN BE DANGEROUS. LIKEWISE, PLEASE CONSULT YOU VET FOR YOUR INDIVDIUAL HAMSTERS NUTRITIONAL NEEDS AND STATUS.

Jonathon Boyd

References:
1. The Hamster Society. Husbandry – List of Poisonous Plants [onine]. Available from:

http://www.hamsoc.org.uk/husbandry.php

2. ASPCA. People Foods To Avoid Feeding Your Pets [online]. Available from:

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/people-foods.html

Another Word About Chewing Hazards
All rodents chew and hamsters will chew anything as they like to keep their ever growing teeth in check. All electrical wires must be moved right out of the way for this reason. Chewing toys and gnaw blocks must be made of materials which are not treated with chemicals nor contain any toxic components. Also don’t give anything that could create sharp parts through chewing as these can seriously injure both outside of the body and in. This point can’t be emphasised enough, although there are of course, other household dangers that deserve special attention.

Household Hazards & Poison
If you allow your hamster out of its cage, make sure its play area is enclosed so it can’t escape – they can get into the oddest spaces and you may have a job getting them out again unharmed. Other pets may also show a menacing interest, even if they’re only ‘playing’ this can be extremely frightening and dangerous.  Make sure there are no medications, plants or household products such as cleaners that they could reach. Don’t smoke tobacco near your hamster as pets do suffer from secondary smoke.

Some Common Dangerous Human Medicines, Foods, Household & Garden Plants
Most advice on human medicines that harm pets is based on responses in cats and dogs, but to be on the safe side, the list includes (1):

• Non-steroidal-anit-inflammatories, or NSAIDs as they’re known, often given to control pain in humans
• Antidepressants
• Acetaminophen
• Methylphenidate (often prescribed for ADHD in humans)
• Fluorouracil (prescribed for skin cancers in humans)
• Isoniazid (used for respiratory conditions such as TB)
• Pseudoephedrine (found in decongestant remedies)
• Anti-diabetics
• Vitamin D derivatives
• Baclofen (a muscle relaxant drug for humans)

Human food and garden plants can be harmful, here is just a snapshot of some more common ones (1, 2). This list is simply some of the more common ones in the home or garden –there are more (references given below):

• Alcohol
• Alfalfa
• Almond pits
• Amaryllis
• Apple seeds
• Avocado – for hamsters (and other rodents) this can be fatal if ingested
• Azaleas
• Autumn crocuses
• Buttercups – the yellow flowers in the garden
• Cactus/candelabra
• Cherry pits and cherry laurel
• Chocolate Coffee, Caffeine
• Christmas rose
• Chrysanthemum
• Clematis
• Cornflower
• Cyclamen
• Common privet
• Daffodil (or jonquil)
• Deadly nightshade
• Easter lily
• Eggplant
• Elderberry
• English ivy  Evergreens
• Ferns
• Foxgloves
• Grapes & Raisins – known to have especially harmed pets with kidney problems
• Holly
• Honeysuckle
• Horse chestnuts
• Hyacinth
• Hydrangea
• Irises
• Laurels
• Lilies
• Marigold
• Milk – is known to cause digestive upsets in many animals
• Mistletoe  Mushrooms
• Nightshade plants varieties
• Onions, Garlic, Chives – are known to harm cats and dogs in higher quantities, we suggest avoidance for hamsters
• Peach pits
• Peonies
• Philodendrons
• Poinciana
• Poison ivy / oak
• Poppies
• Potatoes
• Rhododendrons
• Rhubarb
• Rubber plants
• Salt – can cause extreme thirst and passing too much urine – one common source is chips (UK: crisps). Simply do not feed salty foods from any source.
• Sweet pea plants
• Tobacco
• Tomatoes
• Tulips
• Wisteria yews
• Yeast Dough – because it can rise inside the hamster, causing pain even intestinal rupture
• Xylitol – for most animals, this sweetener is harmful if ingested

IF YOU SUSPECT YOUR HAMSTER HAS EATEN SOMETHING HARMFUL OR IS HARMED IN ANY WAY, TAKE IT TO THE VETS IMMEDIATELY, DO NOT TRY TO DIAGNOSE BY USING THIS ARTICLE. This list does not contain every substance or situation dangerous to hamsters – please research carefully for local plants, food specialities, products and drugs and ask your vet for advice.

Jonathon Boyd

References – useful resources on things that poison hamsters/other pets:
1. ASPCA. Top 10 Human Medications That Poison Our Pets [online]. Available from:

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/top-10-human-medications-that-poison-our-pets.html

2. ASPCA. People Foods To Avoid Feeding Your Pets [online]. Available from:

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/people-foods.html

3.  The Hamster Society. Husbandry – List of Poisonous Plants [onine]. Available from:

http://www.hamsoc.org.uk/husbandry.php